2023 - Pichon Comtesse Reserve Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac

The 2023 Réserve de la Comtesse is fabulous. This is the first vintage in which Cabernet Sauvignon drives the blend, the result of extensive replanting over the years and vines that are now old enough to be used here. Among other things, that means the Réserve is more closely aligned with the Grand Vin in style, starting in the vineyard. Potent and explosive, the 2023 offers up a heady mélange of dark fruit, leather, spice, grilled herbs and lavender. It’s a stellar wine in every way. Tasted three times.

Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2023 Pichon Comtesse Reserve rolls out with evocative notes of ripe black cherries, redcurrant jelly, and boysenberries plus underlying hints of wild sage, wet slate, and damp soil. The medium-bodied palate is so fresh and elegant, with gentle powdery tannins supporting the delicate black fruit flavors, finishing on a lingering mineral note. The blend is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, and 5% Cabernet Franc. This is a higher percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon than is typical, a sign of the future since more of this variety is being planted.

The success of Pichon over recent years extends to its second wine also, and this delivers waves of cassis bud and red roses on the opening beats, followed up by vibrant raspberry and and blackberry fruits, easier drinking than the powerhouse 2022. A vintage that sees 50 years of Pichon Comtesse Reserve (once known, of course, as Reserve de la Comtesse). 55% of the production, more than usual because they were focusing so much on Cabernet for the main wine. Nicolas Glumineau director.